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In fact, the town is named after the Roman villa that stood where the coast formed a right angle, or angularia. Whether the eels are the result of a pun or linguistic confusion is unclear, but their presence definitely has something to do with their Italian name anguilla, which is sometimes wrongly taken to be the root of Anguillara. The symbol of Anguillara is a pair of eels, which explains the otherwise rather odd Fountain of Eels that stands at the crest of the town. This is a functioning town, within commuting distance of Rome and yet moving at a pace of its own, its narrow alleys cluttered with village elders passing the time in folding chairs and fishermen still bringing in the freshest seafood as their ancestors did 8,000 years ago, albeit with better gear.
ROADS OF ROME 4 HIDDEN TV
At dusk, swallows swoop from the rafters of the church and weave intricate patterns above the sun-warmed terracotta roofs, soundtracked by the chatter of TV sets behind windows thrown wide open. Yet Anguillara Sabazia wears its antiquity lightly. Archaeologists in scuba gear have discovered more than 3,000 oaken posts, which wer once used to support their houses. The town takes its name from the Roman villa that is buried somewhere beneath its erratically cobbled streets, but there is something more historic still only a few hundred yards outside the village, submerged like a dark secret in the mud of Lake Bracciano.įive thousand years before the creation of Rome, neolithic travellers from Greece or the Arab world found their way to this spot and brought with them a seismic shift: unlike the nomadic hunter-gatherers who populated the region at the time, they farmed, kept domesticated animals and created what must at the time have been a staggeringly large settlement, unprecedented within Italy. This much is obvious when you first glimpse it – a tumble of medieval houses, painted shutters gaping, scattered down the hillside like a handful of rolled dice.